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Brawn

A meat jelly made from a head, feet, and small pieces of meat boiled with salt, pepper, and bay leaves.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and peach match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 16% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 315 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Brawn

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Prepare the head, feet, and small pieces of meat.

Cook and set

  1. Roll them together while hot and press with a heavy weight until cold.

  2. Boil in enough liquid to cover the meat for 30 minutes with salt, pepper, and bay leaves.

  3. Once cooled, pour the liquid over the brawn.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + peachtop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together315 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Pepper + white peppertop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,478 recipes

    Shared aroma: piperonal (bitter, coconut).

  3. Meat + peppertop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,777 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  4. Meat + white peppertop 30% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together363 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyl butyrate (fruity, apple).

  5. Meat + peachtop 31% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together60 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Head of meat
Forms the bulk of the meat that is pressed and set into slices.
Feet
Their collagen releases gelatin during simmering, helping the liquid set into a firm jelly as it cools.
Small pieces of meat
Fill the gaps between larger pieces, giving the set loaf a more even texture.
Black pepper
Adds a sharp, pungent seasoning that carries through the cooking liquid.
Bay leaves
Add a subtle herbal aroma to the cooking liquid.

The step that matters

Pressing the hot meat under weight. Rolling and pressing while the meat is still hot lets the gelatin from the collagen bind the pieces together as they cool. If the meat cools before pressing, the pieces may not fuse into a compact, sliceable block.

Swap the white pepper

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (meat, pepper, peach):

  1. Thymefits better
  2. Clovefits better
  3. Cardamomfits better
  4. White pepperthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against meat, pepper, peach. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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