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To Pot Beef, Veal, Game, or Poultry

A method of slow‑cooking beef, veal, game, or poultry with saltpetre, salt, and spices to produce a tender, seasoned roast.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,395 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

To Pot Beef, Veal, Game, or Poultry

Oven, in the book's wordsA very slow oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a very slow oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Cure the beef

  1. Rub the beef with saltpetre and coarse sea salt.

  2. Let it sit in salt for 2 days, rubbing it daily.

Bake

  1. Place the beef in an earthen pan or stone jar.

  2. Cover it with the skin and fat you cut off.

  3. Pour in ½ pint of water and cover it tightly with paste.

  4. Bake in a slow oven at 300°F (150°C) for about 4 hours.

  5. After baking, drain the gravy into a basin.

Prepare the meat

  1. Remove gristles and skins, then mince the meat finely.

  2. Moisten the minced meat with some of the gravy to make a strong consomme.

  3. Pound the meat in a mortar with fresh butter until smooth, seasoning with black pepper and allspice as you go.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Beef + peppertop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,971 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Beef + buttertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together10,847 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-furfurylthiol (coffee, roasted).

  4. Beef + allspicetop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,940 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Butter + peppertop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together85,593 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Lean gravy beef
Provides the meat that becomes tender during long, slow baking and then the pounded paste.
Saltpetre
Cures the beef, helping it keep its pink colour and firm texture during the salt rest.
Coarse sea salt
Draws out moisture and seasons the beef during the two-day cure.
Fresh butter
Adds fat and richness, giving the pounded meat a smooth, spreadable texture.

The step that matters

Pound the meat until smooth. Cooked meat must be broken into very fine fibres while still warm and moist, otherwise it stays stringy and will not blend smoothly with the butter and spices.

Swap the allspice

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (beef, butter, pepper):

  1. Parsleyfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Tarragonfits better
  4. Allspicethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against beef, butter, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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