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Toad in the Hole

A baked mutton dish covered with a flour batter.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 13,015 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓

Toad in the Hole

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no oven temperature. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.

Prepare the mutton

  1. Cut the mutton into cutlet shapes and roll in flour, salt, and spices.

  2. Place the mutton in a dish and pour over the tomato sauce and ¼ cup of water.

Make and bake the batter

  1. In a bowl, mix the batter with 1½ cups of flour, 1 pint of milk, melted suet, and baking soda.

  2. Pour the batter over the mutton in the dish.

  3. Bake in a 400°F (200°C) oven for 1½ hours.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  2. Pepper + tomatotop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together17,923 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Nutmeg + flourtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,623 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Flour + milktop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together78,219 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Tomato + saucetop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together5,469 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

Flour and milk barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Flour
Forms the structure of the batter that sets around the mutton as it bakes.
Skim milk or buttermilk
Provides the liquid that turns the flour into a pourable batter and adds moisture to the crust.
Suet or dripping
Adds fat that enriches the batter and helps it brown and crisp in the oven.
Baking soda
Reacts with the acidic buttermilk, if used, to give the batter lift.
Loin of mutton
Supplies the main meat, whose juices flavour the batter as it bakes.

The step that matters

Pour the batter over the mutton in the dish. The fat in the dish must be hot before the batter goes in, so the batter sears on contact and begins to rise rather than soaking into the meat and turning dense.

Swap the tomato

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mutton, pepper, nutmeg, flour, sauce, milk):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Shallotfits better
  3. Spinachfits better
  4. Tomatothe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mutton, pepper, nutmeg, flour, sauce, milk. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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