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Wine Jelly

A gelatinous stock made from calf's feet, lemon, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, sherry, brandy, and water.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cinnamon and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,189 recipes. Both carry ethyl cinnamate, which smells sweet, balsamic. The science ↓

Wine Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the feet

  1. Chop each calf's foot into four pieces.

  2. Wash the pieces in a basin of cold water.

  3. Place the pieces in a stew-pan and cover with cold water.

  4. Boil the water, then remove the stew-pan and let it sit on a table.

  5. Remove the pieces with a fork and wash them in cold water again.

  6. Empty the stew-pan and wash it well.

Make the stock

  1. Put the pieces back in the stew-pan with 5 pints of cold water.

  2. Boil the mixture gently for 5 hours, skimming often.

Strain and set

  1. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a basin.

  2. Let the basin sit in a cool place until the stock is cold and jelly-like.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cinnamon + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together14,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  2. Sherry + brandytop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,209 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  3. Lemon + cinnamontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,950 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  4. Lemon + clovetop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,150 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together30,779 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calves' feet
Their collagen releases gelatin into the water, which is what makes the stock set into jelly.
Loaf sugar
Adds sweetness and balances the sharpness of the lemons and wine.
Lemons
Add acidity and fresh citrus aroma that brighten the flavour of the jelly.
Sherry
Adds wine flavour and depth to the finished jelly.
Brandy
Adds warmth and aroma to the finished jelly.

The step that matters

Keep the stock at a gentle simmer and skim it often. A hard rolling boil makes the stock cloudy and breaks up the scum that forms on top, so skimming keeps the jelly clear. Slow, steady heat also lets the gelatin from the feet dissolve fully so the stock sets firm and clear as it cools.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, cinnamon, clove, sherry, brandy):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Applefits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, cinnamon, clove, sherry, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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