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Modern Cookery

A stew of diced ham with shallots, garlic, mace, peppercorns, thyme, parsley, lemon thyme, winter savory, lemon rind, and flour, simmered in stock.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Thyme and parsley match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 9,057 recipes. Both carry cuminaldehyde, which smells Spicy, cumin. The science ↓

Modern Cookery

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Remove fat, rind, and smoked edges from the ham and cut it into dice.

  2. Peel and slice the shallots or onion.

Make the stew

  1. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over low heat.

  2. Add the ham, shallots or onion, cloves, mace, peppercorns, thyme, parsley, lemon thyme, winter savory, and lemon rind.

  3. Stew gently for nearly an hour, shaking the pan frequently.

  4. Sprinkle in the flour gradually, mixing well.

  5. After a few minutes, gradually add the boiling stock while shaking the pan.

  6. Once 2 to 3 pints are added, pour in the rest at once and let it simmer gently for an hour.

Strain

  1. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a large pan.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Thyme + parsleytop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together9,057 recipes

    Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).

  2. Parsley + lemontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together14,037 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Thyme + lemontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,973 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  4. Shallot + parsleytop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,737 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  5. Shallot + thymetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,476 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Ham
Provides the main savoury, meaty flavour of the stew.
Butter
Carries the aromatics and adds richness to the stew base.
Shallots or onion
Adds sweetness and savoury depth as they soften in the butter.
Flour
Thickens the stock into a smooth, lightly body-rich stew.
Stock
Forms the liquid base that the ham and aromatics simmer in.

The step that matters

Adding the flour and stock. Flour must be sprinkled in gradually and mixed well, and the boiling stock added while shaking the pan, so lumps do not form. Stirring keeps starch dispersed, letting it thicken evenly as the stew simmers.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (ham, butter, shallot, clove, thyme, parsley, lemon):

  1. Marjoramfits better
  2. Winter savoryfits better
  3. Tarragonfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against ham, butter, shallot, clove, thyme, parsley, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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