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Modern Cookery

A stew of parsley, game birds, and sherry in a veal stock sauce.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sherry and mushroom are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,176 recipes. Both carry 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol, which smells smoky, clove. The science ↓

Modern Cookery

Ingredients

Directions

Make the sauce

  1. Stew the parsley over gentle heat, stirring often, until the saucepan sides are reddish‑brown.

  2. Mix in the flour and let it take on a little color.

  3. Gradually add the veal stock, making the sauce boil with each addition.

  4. Add the sherry or Madeira and the bruised bodies of the birds.

  5. Boil for 1 to 1½ hours, then strain and remove fat from the sauce.

Finish and serve

  1. If using mushrooms, add them with the other seasonings into the butter.

  2. Pour the sauce over the game joints and heat slowly until near boiling.

  3. Serve immediately with delicately fried sippets around the dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sherry + mushroomtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,176 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol (smoky, clove).

  2. Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,525 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

  3. Parsley + mushroomtop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,132 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  4. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Parsley + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together16,675 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Parsley
Stewed until reddish-brown, it colors and gives the sauce its distinctive aromatic flavor.
Flour
Cooked briefly in the pan, it thickens the sauce as it combines with the stock.
Veal stock or gravy
Forms the liquid base of the sauce, providing body and savory depth.
Sherry or madeira
Adds acidity and aromatic sweetness that rounds out the rich sauce.
Game birds
Their bodies, bruised and simmered, release meaty flavor into the sauce.

The step that matters

Stewing the parsley until reddish-brown. Over gentle heat the parsley must darken without scorching; burnt bitterness would carry into the whole sauce, while pale parsley gives little color or flavor.

Swap the parsley

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, veal, sherry, butter, mushroom):

  1. Thymefits better
  2. Nutmegfits about as well
  3. Marjoramfits about as well
  4. Parsleythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, veal, sherry, butter, mushroom. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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