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Sauce

Walnut Catsup

A walnut-based condiment made with vinegar, beer, anchovies, garlic, spices, and salt, aged for up to 12 years.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 10 ingredients
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Why it works: Nutmeg and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,686 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Walnut Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the walnuts

  1. Pound the walnuts in a mortar and mix with the salt.

  2. Pour in the vinegar and let the mixture stand until it turns black, stirring three or four times a day.

Make the ketchup

  1. Add the beer and boil the mixture for 10 minutes.

  2. Strain the mixture and let it sit overnight to settle.

  3. Pour off the clear liquid from the sediment.

  4. Add the anchovies, garlic, nutmeg, cloves, black pepper, and mace.

  5. Boil the mixture for 30 minutes.

  6. Bottle and cork the catsup well. It will keep for up to 12 years.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Nutmeg + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Nutmeg + macetop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  3. Walnut + nutmegtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,230 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  5. Clove + macetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Walnuts
Provide the main flavour and dark colour as they steep in the vinegar.
Vinegar
Acts as the acidic base that extracts flavour and preserves the mixture.
Anchovies
Add savoury depth, giving a salty, umami character to the ketchup.
Garlic
Adds pungent aroma and savoury flavour that mellows during boiling.

The step that matters

Letting the walnuts stand until black. The walnuts must steep in the vinegar long enough to darken and release their flavour. Stirring several times a day keeps the salt and nuts evenly in contact, so the base develops consistently before the liquid is strained.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (walnut, vinegar, beer, garlic, nutmeg, clove, pepper):

  1. Allspicefits better
  2. Cinnamonfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against walnut, vinegar, beer, garlic, nutmeg, clove, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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