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A Salmi, or Hash of Wild Fowl

A hash made from wild fowl skin and trimmings in broth, thickened with roux, flavored with port wine, lemon, and cayenne, served with fried sippets.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 8 ingredients
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Why it works: Lemon and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

A Salmi, or Hash of Wild Fowl

Ingredients

Directions

Make the sauce

  1. Boil the skin and trimmings of the wild fowl in good broth or gravy with the shallots until the flavor is imparted.

  2. Strain the mixture, then heat and thicken it slightly with brown roux or browned flour.

  3. Add the port wine, lemon juice, and cayenne to taste.

Finish and serve

  1. Warm the birds slowly in the sauce without allowing it to boil.

  2. Serve hot with fried sippets around the dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + peppertop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Shallot + lemontop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,523 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Shallot + flourtop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,081 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Shallot + port winetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together380 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  5. Shallot + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,898 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Wild fowl skin and trimmings
Gives the broth a rich, savory meaty flavor.
Brown roux or browned flour
Thickens the sauce and adds a toasted, nutty depth.
Port wine
Adds sweetness and fruity depth to the sauce.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the rich sauce.

The step that matters

Warm the birds without boiling. Boiling toughens the proteins in cooked meat, making it dry and stringy, and can cause a thickened sauce to break or separate. Gentle heat keeps the meat tender and the sauce smooth.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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