Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
A Good Soda Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Prepare
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Make the batter
Rub the butter into the flour until very fine.
Mix in the sugar, then pour in the boiling milk and add the whisked eggs.
Stir in the nutmeg or lemon rind and currants, mixing well.
Before molding the cake, stir in the baking soda.
Bake
Bake for 1 to 1¼ hours, or divide the batter and bake each half for 30 to 45 minutes.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together18,623 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + sugartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Butter
- Rubbed into flour to create a tender, crumbly texture and rich flavour.
- All-purpose flour
- Provides the structure that holds the cake together as it bakes.
- Granulated sugar
- Sweetens the cake and helps it brown during baking.
- Eggs
- Bind the batter and add structure, richness and moisture.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the batter to produce gas, helping the cake rise.
- Currants
- Add chewy pockets of fruit sweetness throughout the cake.
The step that matters
Adding the baking soda. Baking soda starts producing gas as soon as it meets moisture and acid-containing ingredients, so it should be stirred in just before molding and baked promptly. Waiting too long lets the gas escape, which can leave the cake flat and dense.
Swap the currant
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, sugar, milk, egg, nutmeg):
- Vanillafits better
- Raisinfits better
- Figfits better
- Currantthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, sugar, milk, egg, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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