Why it works: Lemon and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓
Modern Cookery
Ingredients
Directions
Make the sauce
In a saucepan, bring water to a boil and stir in the ingredients until the sauce thickens.
In a bowl, mix the yolks of 3 eggs with the lemon juice, butter, salt, nutmeg, and water.
Gradually stir in the white sauce, then return to the saucepan.
Heat gently, being careful not to boil, and stir in a dessert spoonful of strained lemon juice just before serving.
Serve
Lift cooked meat or chicken from the saucepan, drain, and place in a hot dish.
Pour the sauce over the meat and serve immediately.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Lemon + peppertop 3% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together27,047 recipes
Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).
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Nutmeg + macetop 4% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together6,557 recipes
Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).
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Lemon + nutmegtop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together11,318 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).
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Nutmeg + peppertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together13,015 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
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Butter + saucetop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together15,338 recipes
Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).
Butter and sauce barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 15,338 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg yolks
- Thicken the sauce as they set with gentle heat, giving it a smooth, rich body.
- Butter
- Adds richness and a smooth, silky mouthfeel to the sauce.
- Lemon juice
- Brings acidity that brightens the sauce and balances its richness.
- Common white sauce
- Forms the base of the sauce and adds body and volume.
The step that matters
Heat gently, without boiling. Egg yolks thicken by gentle heating, but too much heat makes them scramble and curdle, leaving the sauce grainy instead of smooth.
Swap the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, lemon, butter, nutmeg, pepper, veal, sauce):
- Parsleyfits better
- Tarragonfits better
- Marjoramfits better
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, lemon, butter, nutmeg, pepper, veal, sauce. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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