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Dessert

Sugar Icing

A sweet glaze made from refined sugar, starch, egg whites, optional coloring, and spirit.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Saffron and spinach match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 149 recipes. Both carry nonanal, which smells fat, citrus. The science ↓

Sugar Icing

Oven, in the book's wordsA cool oven

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the sugar

  1. Combine the sugar and starch, pound finely, and sift through gauze.

Make the icing

  1. Beat the egg whites until frothy, ensuring to beat in one direction.

  2. Gradually add the powdered sugar to the egg whites while continuing to whip for 30 minutes.

  3. Set aside a small amount of icing for decoration.

Color and finish

  1. To color the icing, mix the coloring with a little colorless spirit, then stir into the icing until the desired tint is achieved.

  2. Spread the icing smoothly over the cake with a knife and dry it in a cool oven.

  3. Use a cone made of stiff paper to squeeze the colored icing for decoration.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Saffron + spinachtop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together149 recipes

    Shared aroma: nonanal (fat, citrus).

  2. Saffron + spirittop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together69 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Egg + spinachtop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,323 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  5. Sugar + spirittop 25% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together602 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Extra refined sugar
Forms the bulk of the icing and gives it sweetness and a smooth, set texture.
Fine white starch
Dries the sugar mixture and helps the icing stay light and smooth.
Egg whites
Whipped to a foam, they trap air and give the icing its structure and body.

The step that matters

Gradually add the powdered sugar to the egg whites while whipping. Adding sugar slowly lets the whipped whites hold their air and form a stable foam; dumping it in at once can collapse the foam and leave the icing dense.

Swap the saffron

The recipe marks saffron as optional. How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, spinach, spirit):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Nutmegfits better
  3. Saffronthe original
  4. Gingerfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, spinach, spirit. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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