Why it works: Horseradish and mustard match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,832 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓
Chow-chow
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the tomatoes
Slice green tomatoes and place them in a jar covered with water.
Add coarse sea salt and let stand for 24 hours.
Pour off the salt water.
Add fresh water.
Let drain for 1-2 hours.
Make the relish
Chop the tomatoes with the peppers and onions.
Put the mixture in a pot with vinegar.
Heat until scalding, stirring continuously.
Drain the mixture.
Transfer to a jar.
Add horseradish, ground cloves and allspice, white mustard seed, and brown sugar. Stir well.
Cover with vinegar.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Horseradish + mustardtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,832 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Clove + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together7,874 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Allspice + mustardtop 2% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,928 recipes
Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).
-
Horseradish + allspicetop 4% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together654 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
-
Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together17,451 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Green tomatoes
- Form the bulk of the relish and, after salting, give it a firm, crisp texture.
- Coarse sea salt
- Draws water out of the tomatoes so the relish stays firm rather than soggy.
- Vinegar
- Adds acidity that sharpens the flavor and helps preserve the relish.
- Brown sugar
- Adds sweetness that balances the sharp vinegar and spices.
- White mustard seed
- Contributes a sharp, pungent flavor that defines the relish.
- Onions
- Add savory depth and bulk to the chopped vegetable mixture.
The step that matters
Salting and draining the tomatoes. Salt pulls water out of the tomato slices through osmosis. Rinsing and draining well removes excess salt and moisture, so the relish stays crisp and is not overly salty or watery.
Swap the tomato
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (pepper, onion, vinegar, horseradish, clove, allspice, mustard):
- Shallotfits better
- Radishfits better
- Broccolifits better
- Tomatothe original
Fit is the average pairing score against pepper, onion, vinegar, horseradish, clove, allspice, mustard. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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