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Montpellier Butter

A savory butter made with anchovy, egg yolk, capers, gherkin, and herbs, chilled until firm.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Shallot and capers match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 405 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Montpellier Butter

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the herbs

  1. Blanch the parsley, fennel, and spinach, then strain very dry.

Make and chill the butter

  1. Pound all ingredients together and rub through a fine sieve.

  2. Chill in the refrigerator until firm.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Shallot + caperstop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together405 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Parsley + caperstop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,550 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Parsley + shallottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,737 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  4. Parsley + fenneltop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together625 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  5. Capers + spinachtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together99 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Provides the rich fat base that carries the flavours and firms up when chilled.
Egg yolk
Helps bind the butter and oil into a smooth, stable emulsion.
Anchovy
Adds salty, savoury depth that rounds out the butter.
Gherkin
Adds sharp acidity that cuts through the richness of the butter.
Capers
Add briny, tangy bite that brightens the butter.
Shallot
Adds a mild, sharp allium aroma to the butter.

The step that matters

Strain the blanched herbs very dry. Water left in the blanched parsley, fennel and spinach would dilute the butter and can stop it setting firm when chilled. Squeezing out the moisture keeps the texture smooth and the colour bright.

Swap the fennel

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, anchovy, egg, parsley, shallot, capers, spinach):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Nutmegfits better
  4. Fennelthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, anchovy, egg, parsley, shallot, capers, spinach. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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