Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Italian Wafers
Ingredients
Directions
Make the batter
Combine flour, sugar, salt, orange-flower water, eggs, and milk in a pan.
Mix vigorously with a wooden spoon.
Add melted butter.
Continue mixing for another 10 minutes.
Bake the wafers
Heat the wafer irons over a charcoal fire, turning them frequently to ensure even heating.
Brush the inside of the irons with clarified butter.
Pour a tablespoon of batter onto the bottom sheet.
Close the top part.
Bake the wafers on both sides until they are a light fawn color.
Use the first wafer to test the heat of the irons; adjust as necessary for subsequent batches.
Immediately roll the baked wafers around a stick that is about 5 inches long and 1 inch in diameter.
Store the wafers in a closed tin box at a warm temperature.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
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Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together106,462 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Provide structure and richness, setting the batter as it bakes.
- Flour
- Forms the structure that holds the thin wafer together.
- Sugar
- Adds sweetness and helps the wafers brown to a golden color.
- Butter
- Adds fat for richness and tenderness, and keeps the irons from sticking.
- Milk
- Adds moisture that thins the batter for spreading in the irons.
The step that matters
Testing the heat of the irons. If the irons are too hot, the batter scorches before it sets; if too cool, the wafers stay pale and tear when rolled. Testing with the first wafer lets you adjust the heat before the rest of the batter is used.
Swap the orange
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, flour, egg, milk, butter):
- Vanillafits better
- Raisinfits better
- Figfits better
- Orangethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, flour, egg, milk, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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