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Sauce

Boiled Dressing

A sauce made by mixing egg yolk, mustard, butter, cayenne, cream, salt, and vinegar, then cooking over boiling water until thickened.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Boiled Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

Mix and cook

  1. Mix ingredients in the order given, adding vinegar very slowly.

  2. Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens.

Strain and cool

  1. Strain and cool.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. Egg + buttertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  4. Mustard + buttertop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,003 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  5. Butter + vinegartop 23% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together13,513 recipes

    Shared aroma: isoamyl acetate (banana, pear).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolk
Egg proteins set as they heat, thickening the dressing and helping it hold together.
Butter
Melted fat adds richness and a smooth, rounded mouthfeel.
Cream
Adds moisture and body, softening the sharpness of the vinegar.
Vinegar
Adds acidity that brightens the flavor and balances the richness.
Mustard
Adds sharp flavor and helps stabilize the emulsion of fat and liquid.

The step that matters

Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly. Egg yolk proteins thicken with gentle heat but can curdle or scramble if they overheat or sit still. Constant stirring and indirect heat from boiling water spread the heat evenly, so the dressing thickens smoothly.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, butter, cream, vinegar):

  1. Chivefits about as well
  2. Potatofits about as well
  3. Asparagusfits about as well
  4. Mustardthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, butter, cream, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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