Why it works: Mustard and horseradish match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,832 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓
Boiled Salad Dressing
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
In a double boiler, heat 1-2 pints of vinegar.
Beat the eggs with the sugar, mustard, salt, and pepper.
Stir in the flour mixed with enough water to make a paste.
Cook and finish
Add the paste to the egg mixture and vinegar, then whip until light.
Add the butter and stir for 10 minutes until thick and smooth.
Once cooled, mix in horseradish to taste and fold in whipped cream.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Photo for illustrative purposes only · Contact us to use it
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Mustard + horseradishtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together1,832 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Vinegar + mustardtop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together14,067 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Mustard + peppertop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together15,430 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).
-
Flour + horseradishtop 10% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together743 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Pepper + horseradishtop 11% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,646 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Thicken the dressing as they cook and give it a rich, smooth body.
- Flour
- Stabilizes the dressing by thickening it so it holds together without separating.
- Vinegar
- Provides the sharp acidity that defines the dressing's tangy flavor.
- Butter
- Adds fat for a smoother, silkier texture and a richer mouthfeel.
- Whipped cream
- Lightens the cooled dressing and adds creamy softness.
The step that matters
Add the butter and stir for 10 minutes until thick and smooth. Egg proteins set when heated, so the mixture must be cooked gently over a double boiler and stirred constantly. Too much heat can curdle the eggs and leave the dressing lumpy instead of smooth.
Swap the horseradish
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (vinegar, egg, sugar, mustard, pepper, flour, butter):
- Shallotfits about as well
- Horseradishthe original
- Chivefits about as well
- Capsicumfits about as well
Fit is the average pairing score against vinegar, egg, sugar, mustard, pepper, flour, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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