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Cucumber Catsup

A pickled cucumber condiment seasoned with onions, mace, Madeira wine, sweet oil, cayenne and black pepper.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cucumber and onion match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 8% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,050 recipes. Both carry 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine, which smells earthy, pea. The science ↓

Cucumber Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Peel the cucumbers and slice them thinly.

  2. Cover the slices with ½ pint of coarse sea salt to draw out the water.

  3. Chop the onions finely and add to the cucumbers.

Season and rest

  1. Mix in the mace, Madeira wine, sweet oil, cayenne pepper, and black pepper.

  2. Let the mixture sit for a few hours before using.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cucumber + oniontop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,050 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  2. Onion + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Cucumber + peppertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,991 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Mace + peppertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together12,257 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  5. Onion + macetop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together7,078 recipes

    Shared aroma: eugenol (clove, spicy).

Mace and pepper barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 12,257 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cucumbers
Provide the bulk of the ketchup; salting draws out their water so the sauce thickens.
Coarse sea salt
Draws water out of the cucumber slices, concentrating flavor and firming the texture.
Onions
Add pungent sharpness and savory depth that balances the sweetness of the wine.
Madeira wine
Adds sweetness and rich, caramel-like aroma to the sauce.
Sweet oil
Adds fat that carries the spices and gives a smoother mouthfeel.

The step that matters

Salting the cucumber slices. Salt pulls water out of the cucumbers by osmosis. Enough salt and time are needed to draw out the liquid, otherwise the ketchup stays thin and watery.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cucumber, onion, madeira wine, pepper):

  1. Garlicfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Parsleyfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cucumber, onion, madeira wine, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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