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Dessert

Boiled Dressing

A thickened dressing made with salt, flour, sugar, egg, butter, hot water, vinegar, mustard, and cayenne pepper.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Boiled Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dressing

  1. In a bowl, mix the dry ingredients: salt, flour, and sugar.

  2. Add the slightly beaten egg (or egg yolks), butter, hot water, and vinegar slowly.

  3. Cook the mixture over boiling water until it thickens.

Finish and serve

  1. Strain the dressing and let it cool.

  2. If desired, thin the dressing with cream.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Mustard + peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together15,430 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Mustard + flourtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,066 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,814 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Flour
Thickens the dressing as it cooks, giving it body.
Egg
Adds richness and helps thicken and bind the dressing as it cooks.
Butter
Adds fat for smoothness and a rich mouthfeel.
Vinegar
Adds acidity that sharpens the flavour of the dressing.

The step that matters

Cook over boiling water until it thickens. Egg proteins set when heated, but overheating can curdle the egg and make the dressing lumpy. Cooking gently while stirring keeps it smooth and thickened.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, butter, pepper, sugar, vinegar, flour):

  1. Capsicumfits about as well
  2. Shallotfits about as well
  3. Mustardthe original
  4. Chivefits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, butter, pepper, sugar, vinegar, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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