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A Salmi, or Hash of Wild Fowl

A savory hash made from carved wild fowl simmered in broth, thickened with roux, flavored with port wine, lemon, and cayenne.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 8 ingredients
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Why it works: Lemon and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

A Salmi, or Hash of Wild Fowl

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the stock

  1. Carve the wild fowl neatly and remove the skin.

  2. In a pot, combine the skin and trimmings with good broth or gravy and the shallots.

  3. Simmer until the flavor is imparted, then strain the mixture.

Make the sauce

  1. Heat the strained broth and thicken it slightly with brown roux or browned flour.

  2. Add the port wine, lemon juice, and cayenne to the broth.

Warm and serve

  1. Warm the carved birds in the sauce without boiling.

  2. Serve hot with fried sippets around the dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + peppertop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Shallot + lemontop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,523 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Shallot + flourtop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,081 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Shallot + port winetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together380 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  5. Shallot + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,898 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Wild fowl
Provides the main meat, which is carved and gently warmed in the sauce.
Brown roux or browned flour
Thickens the broth so it clings to the carved meat and gains a toasted, nutty flavor.
Port wine
Adds sweetness and depth of flavor that rounds out the savory broth.
Juice of ½ small lemon
Adds acidity that brightens the rich broth and balances the wine.

The step that matters

Warm the carved birds without boiling. Boiling the sauce with the meat toughens muscle proteins and makes the meat dry and stringy, so the sauce should only be kept hot enough to warm the birds through.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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