Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
A Good Soda Cake
Ingredients
Directions
Make the batter
Break down the butter into small crumbs with the flour.
Mix in the sifted sugar.
Pour in the boiling milk and add the whisked eggs.
Add grated nutmeg or lemon rind and the currants, then beat the mixture well.
Stir in the carbonate of soda and beat lightly for 3-4 minutes.
Bake
Pour the batter into a buttered mold and bake for 1 to 1¼ hours, or divide into two molds and bake each for ¾ hour.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together18,623 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + sugartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Butter
- Rubbed into the flour, it adds richness and a tender, crumbly texture.
- Eggs
- Bind the batter and add structure and moisture as the cake sets.
- Carbonate of soda
- Reacts with the batter to lift it, giving the cake its rise.
- Flour
- Forms the main structure of the cake as it bakes.
- Currants
- Add pockets of chewy sweetness and fruit through the crumb.
The step that matters
Stir in the carbonate of soda and beat lightly. Soda starts reacting as soon as it meets the batter, so it should be mixed in briefly and baked promptly. Overbeating knocks out the gas bubbles and can toughen the crumb, leaving a flat, dense cake.
Swap the currant
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, sugar, milk, egg, nutmeg):
- Vanillafits better
- Raisinfits better
- Figfits better
- Currantthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, sugar, milk, egg, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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