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Fish Sauce, to Keep a Year

A preserved fish sauce made from anchovies, shallots, horseradish, mace, wine, anchovy liquor, claret, cloves, and peppercorns.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Shallot and horseradish match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 376 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Fish Sauce, to Keep a Year

1 quart

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. Chop the anchovies, shallots, and horseradish.

  2. Combine all ingredients in a pot.

Reduce and bottle

  1. Boil until reduced to 1 quart.

  2. Strain the mixture and bottle for use.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Shallot + horseradishtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together376 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Shallot + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,677 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Mace + clovetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Horseradish + clovetop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,245 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  5. Shallot + white winetop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together881 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Anchovies
Dissolve into the liquid to give a deep, savoury, salty flavour.
White wine
Provides the main liquid and acidity, carrying flavour through the reduction.
Claret
Adds body, tannin and a deeper wine flavour as it reduces.
Anchovy liquor
Concentrates the fish flavour and adds savoury depth to the liquid.
Horseradish
Adds sharp, pungent aroma that mellows during boiling.

The step that matters

Boil until reduced to 1 quart. Reducing concentrates the flavours of the wine and anchovies and sets the final strength of the sauce. Stopping too early leaves it thin and weak, while over-reducing makes it harsh and salty. Check the volume as it boils.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (shallot, horseradish, white wine, anchovy, clove):

  1. Capersfits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against shallot, horseradish, white wine, anchovy, clove. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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