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English Malmsey or Malt Wine

A fortified wine made from sweet-wort, sugar, raisins, hops, yeast, isinglass, and brandy, aged for a year.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 7 ingredients
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Why it works: Wort and brandy work together. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 18 recipes. Both carry phenethyl acetate, which smells rose, honey. The science ↓

English Malmsey or Malt Wine

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the wort

  1. Boil the sweet-wort with lump-sugar for 1 hour.

  2. While still warm, transfer it to a barrel.

Ferment

  1. Add chopped raisins, dissolved isinglass, and yeast to the barrel.

  2. Stir the mixture daily for 2 weeks or longer.

  3. Keep the bung lightly in until fermentation ceases.

Age and bottle

  1. Add brandy and let the wine stand for 12 months.

  2. After 12 months, rack off and bottle the wine.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Wort + brandytop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenethyl acetate (rose, honey).

  2. Raisin + brandytop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,768 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  3. Sugar + raisintop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,481 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  4. Wort + raisintop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together16 recipes

    Shared aroma: gamma-nonanolactone (coconut, creamy).

  5. Sugar + brandytop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together11,939 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Sugar and brandy barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 11,939 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sweet-wort
Forms the liquid base that ferments into the wine.
Lump-sugar
Provides fermentable sugar for yeast and adds sweetness to the finished wine.
Malaga raisins
Add sweetness, body and fruity flavour as they break down in the wine.
Isinglass
Helps fine the wine, drawing suspended particles out so it clears.
Yeast
Converts the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide during fermentation.
Brandy
Raises the alcohol level, fortifying the wine and helping it keep.

The step that matters

Keep the bung lightly in until fermentation ceases. Fermentation releases carbon dioxide that must escape, so the bung should not be sealed tight. A loose bung lets gas out while limiting air contact, which could spoil the wine. Fermentation is finished when bubbling stops.

Swap the raisin

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (wort, sugar, hops, brandy):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Applefits about as well
  3. Grapefits about as well
  4. Raisinthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against wort, sugar, hops, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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