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Dessert

Excellent Pop-Over

A light, airy bread baked in cups, made from flour, milk, eggs, sugar, and salt.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Flour and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 14% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Excellent Pop-Over

a dozen cups
Oven, in the book's wordsA moderately hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderately hot oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

  2. Butter a dozen stone or earthenware cups and arrange them in an old dripping pan.

Make the batter

  1. In a mixing bowl, combine the sifted flour, sugar, and salt.

  2. Beat the eggs until very light, then add the milk.

  3. Pour the egg and milk mixture into the flour, starting with half, and beat until smooth and light, about 5 minutes.

Bake

  1. Pour the batter into the prepared cups and bake for 50 minutes until they have increased to four times their original size.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Flour + milktop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together78,219 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Flour + sugartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together92,116 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).

  3. Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Milk + eggtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together88,785 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Milk + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together77,875 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Flour and milk barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Provide structure and lift as they expand with steam during baking, letting the popovers rise.
Flour
Forms the gluten network that holds the batter's shape as it puffs and sets.
Milk
Adds moisture that turns to steam in the oven and helps the batter set into a tender crumb.

The step that matters

Beat the batter until smooth and light. Beating incorporates air and develops the gluten network that lets the batter stretch. Under-beaten batter, or batter left lumpy, may not rise well and can stay dense.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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