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Cucumber Pickles

A preserved cucumber dish using salt, alum, spices, sugar, and cider vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and horseradish match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,832 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Cucumber Pickles

Ingredients

Directions

Brine and alum

  1. Soak fresh cucumbers in strong salt water for 48 hours.

  2. Place cucumbers in a wooden vessel with a layer of grass or grape leaves at the bottom.

  3. Sprinkle ¼ pound of pulverized alum, 1 cup of whole black pepper, 1 cup of black mustard seed, and sliced horseradish over the cucumbers, layering with grass or grape leaves.

  4. Boil equal parts vinegar and water, or use vinegar from old pickles. Pour the boiled mixture over the cucumbers to cover them well.

  5. Let the cucumbers stand overnight.

  6. Pour off the vinegar. Boil the vinegar. Pour the boiled vinegar over the cucumbers again.

  7. Repeat this process for three mornings.

Pack and seal

  1. Transfer cucumbers to stone jars.

  2. Add 1 tablespoon of pulverized alum, ¼ pound of whole black pepper, ¼ pound of black mustard seed, sliced horseradish, and red pepper to the jars.

  3. Sprinkle 5 pounds of brown sugar through the cucumbers.

  4. Pour enough cold good cider vinegar over to cover the cucumbers.

  5. Tie up the jars tightly.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + horseradishtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Cucumber + horseradishtop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together640 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Cucumber + mustardtop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,281 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Cider + vinegartop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,431 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).

  5. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Fresh cucumbers
Form the pickle itself, becoming crisp and firm as they cure in brine and vinegar.
Pulverized alum
Firms the cucumber tissue so it stays crisp through the long pickling process.
Brown sugar
Adds sweetness that balances the sharp vinegar and salt.
Cider vinegar
Provides the acidity that preserves the cucumbers and gives the pickle its sour bite.
Black mustard seed
Adds pungent, sharp flavor that deepens as the pickle matures.
Sliced horseradish
Contributes a sharp, pungent aroma and heat to the brine.

The step that matters

Repeating the vinegar pour-off and reboil. Each reboil and pour-off is what drives the cucumbers to firm and cure; skipping or shortening the cycle leaves the brine weaker and the cucumbers softer.

Swap the cucumber

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (pepper, mustard, horseradish, sugar, cider, vinegar):

  1. Radishfits about as well
  2. Shallotfits about as well
  3. Broccolifits about as well
  4. Cucumberthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against pepper, mustard, horseradish, sugar, cider, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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