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Dessert

Doughnuts

A fried dough treat made with eggs, sugar, sweet milk, baking soda, cream of tartar, lard, and flour.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Doughnuts

Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

Doughnuts

Oven, in the book's wordsA hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dough

  1. In a bowl, stir together the sugar and eggs until creamy.

  2. Add the sweet milk, baking soda, cream of tartar, and melted lard; mix well.

  3. Gradually add flour until the dough is soft but manageable.

Shape and fry

  1. Roll out the dough and cut into rings.

  2. Fry the doughnuts in hot lard until golden brown.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Photo for illustrative purposes only · Contact us to use it

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Milk + flourtop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together78,219 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together92,116 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).

  4. Egg + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Milk + creamtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together29,399 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

Milk and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Bind the dough and add richness and structure as they set in the fryer.
Baking soda
Reacts with the cream of tartar to release gas, helping the doughnuts rise and lighten.
Cream of tartar
Acidifies the dough so it reacts with the baking soda, producing lift and a tender crumb.
Melted lard
Adds fat for tenderness and moisture, and carries flavour and browning in the frying step.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and helps the doughnuts brown evenly during frying.
Flour
Forms the gluten network that gives the dough its body so it can be rolled and cut.

The step that matters

Frying the doughnuts in hot lard. If the lard is not hot enough, doughnuts absorb excess oil and turn greasy and heavy. If it is too hot, the outside browns before the centre cooks. Steady heat gives a golden exterior and a fully cooked interior.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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