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Pains of Rhubarb a LA Royal

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Orange and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,634 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Pains of Rhubarb a LA Royal

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Rub the zest from 6 oranges onto a piece of lump sugar in a stew-pan.

  2. Squeeze the juice from 14 oranges and 4 lemons onto the sugar through a fine sieve.

  3. Soak ½ lb. of gelatine in cold water for 10 minutes.

  4. Measure the orange juice and add enough water to make nearly 2 quarts.

  5. Chop some of the sugar to sweeten the jelly (about ½ lb.).

  6. Combine the juice mixture and sugar in the stew-pan and heat until nearly boiling, skimming off any scum.

  7. Taste and add more sugar if needed, then remove from heat.

  8. Strain the soaked gelatine into the jelly, stirring until dissolved.

  9. Let the mixture cool in the larder until nearly set.

  10. For decoration, prepare a little blanc-mange or sweetened milk with melted gelatine and a splash of brandy or maraschino.

  11. Pour a little of this into the bottom of each mould and let it set.

  12. Add a few drops of cochineal to some of the orange jelly and pour it over the set blanc-mange.

  13. Place the stew-pan with the orange jelly in a larger pan filled with ice and water, stirring until it begins to thicken.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Orange + lemontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,634 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Orange + sugartop 20% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together19,212 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Lemon and sugar barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

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