Why it works: Lemon and arrowroot match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 553 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓
Custard for Pains of Apricots
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare a bain-marie and ensure you have enough sauce, about ½ pint.
For the gravy, use 1 pint of best gravy in the bain-marie.
Combine 1 glass of sherry with ½ pint of Espagnol sauce, bring to a boil, and place in the bain-marie.
Mix ½ gill of salad oil with ½ gill of malt vinegar, adding white pepper, sugar, and salt to taste.
Beat the salad dressing well before pouring over sliced tomatoes arranged in a pile.
On the hot-plate, heat ½ pint of water with 2 ounces of sugar and the thinly peeled rind of a lemon.
Mix 2 tablespoons of arrowroot with ½ gill of cold water, then stir into the boiling mixture on the hot-plate until thickened.
Add 1 gill of sherry and ½ teaspoon of prepared cochineal, then return to the bain-marie, leaving the lemon rind until ready to serve.
Whip 1 pint of fresh cream until firm and slightly sweeten it.
When making tarts, cut a ring about 3 inches wide in the pastry top, remove the cut-out, and fill with whipped cream before serving.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Lemon + arrowroottop 4% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together553 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Sherry + vinegartop 11% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together660 recipes
Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).
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Sauce + sugartop 13% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,147 recipes
Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).
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Sherry + arrowroottop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together129 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-methylbutyraldehyde (malty, chocolate).
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Vinegar + sugartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together20,806 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
Swap the white pepper
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sauce, sherry, malt, vinegar, sugar, lemon, arrowroot):
- Tarragonfits better
- Capersfits better
- Cinnamonfits better
- White pepperthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against sauce, sherry, malt, vinegar, sugar, lemon, arrowroot. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
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