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Calfs-head Soup

A soup made from calf's head, seasoned with herbs, cloves, pepper, salt, thickened with batter, finished with sherry and egg yolks.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 17,451 recipes. Both carry ethyl octanoate, which smells fruity, wine. The science ↓

Calfs-head Soup

Oven, in the book's wordsA slow oven

Ingredients

Directions

Cook the head

  1. Boil the calf's head in enough water to cover it until tender.

  2. Remove the bones and cut the meat into small pieces.

  3. Season the meat with sweet herbs, cloves, pepper, and coarse sea salt.

  4. Return the meat to the pot with the cooking liquid.

Thicken and serve

  1. Thicken the soup with a little batter and simmer gently for 1 hour.

  2. Just before serving, add 1 to 2 glasses of sherry and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  2. Clove + sherrytop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,237 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  3. Pepper + sherrytop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,107 recipes

    Shared aroma: piperonal (bitter, coconut).

  4. Sherry + eggtop 29% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together3,324 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  5. Pepper + eggtop 33% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together50,580 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Pepper and egg barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 50,580 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calf's head
Provides the meat and gelatin that give the soup its body and rich flavor.
Batter
Starch thickens the hot liquid, giving the soup a fuller, smoother texture.
Hard-boiled egg yolks
Their rich, crumbly yolk adds body and a creamy finish to the soup.
Sherry
Adds acidity and a sweet, fortified aroma that brightens the rich broth.

The step that matters

Thicken gently and simmer. Starch thickens properly only when it is well dispersed and heated gently; boiling hard can cause lumps and a thin or uneven texture. Gentle simmering also keeps the meat tender rather than tough.

Swap the clove

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (pepper, sherry, egg):

  1. Parsleyfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Nutmegfits better
  4. Clovethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against pepper, sherry, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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