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Dessert

Calfs Feet Jelly

A gelatin dessert made from calf's feet, sugar, sherry or brandy, lemon juice, and egg whites.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sherry and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 17% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 3,273 recipes. Both carry 1-octen-3-ol, which smells mushroom, earthy. The science ↓

Calfs Feet Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the stock

  1. Boil the calf's feet in water until broken and reduced by half.

  2. Strain the mixture.

  3. Let it cool.

  4. Remove the fat and sediment.

Clarify the jelly

  1. In a saucepan, combine the jelly with sugar, sherry or brandy, lemon juice, and lemon peel.

  2. Add the beaten egg whites and their shells.

  3. Do not stir after it begins to boil.

  4. Boil for 20 minutes after it rises to a head.

  5. Pour through a hot, damp flannel jelly bag to clarify.

  6. Place the bag over a basin and let the jelly run through until clear.

Set and serve

  1. Pour the jelly into soaked moulds and let it set in a cool place or on ice in summer.

  2. Dip the mould in hot water for a minute.

  3. Invert onto a dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sherry + lemontop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,273 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  2. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Lemon + eggtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  4. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Sugar + sherrytop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together4,141 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calf's feet
Provide gelatin, which sets the water into a firm jelly as it cools.
Whites of 5 eggs
Their proteins coagulate when heated, trapping sediment so the jelly can be strained clear.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and balances the sharpness of the lemon and wine.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the flavour and balances the sweetness.

The step that matters

Do not stir after it begins to boil. Stirring once the egg whites have begun to set breaks up the forming curds, so they disperse into the liquid and cloud the jelly instead of being caught in the bag.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, sherry, egg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Pineapplefits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, sherry, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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