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Dessert

Egg Rolls

A sweet roll made with mashed potatoes, eggs, sugar, yeast cake, flour, salt, and lard, baked until risen.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and flour are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 15% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 92,116 recipes. Both carry phenylacetaldehyde, which smells hawthorne, honey. The science ↓

Egg Rolls

Oven, in the book's wordsA hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a hot oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the potato mixture

  1. Peel the potatoes and boil until done, then mash the potatoes.

  2. Strain into boiling water to make 1 pint.

  3. Let the mixture cool completely.

  4. Add beaten eggs, sugar, and yeast cake and mix thoroughly.

  5. Let ferment for 2 to 3 hours.

Make the dough

  1. Sift the flour.

  2. Add salt and lard and mix well.

  3. Combine with fermented mixture and knead thoroughly.

  4. Shape into rolls.

  5. Let rise until light.

Bake

  1. Bake in a hot oven at 400°F (200°C) for 1 to 2 hours.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together92,116 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).

  2. Potato + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,355 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Egg + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Potato + eggtop 29% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,978 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e)-2-octenal (fatty, green).

Egg and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 106,462 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Potatoes
Mashed into the mixture, they add moisture and a soft, tender crumb.
Eggs
Add structure and richness, helping the rolls hold their shape and color.
Sugar
Feeds the yeast during fermentation and adds sweetness and browning.
Yeast cake
Ferments the mixture, producing gas that makes the rolls rise and become light.
Flour
Forms the gluten network that gives the dough its structure and chew.
Lard
Adds fat, tenderizing the crumb and giving a softer texture.

The step that matters

Let the mixture cool completely before adding the yeast cake and eggs. Yeast is killed by hot liquid, so if the strained potato mixture is still warm when the yeast cake goes in, fermentation may fail and the rolls will not rise well.

Swap the potato

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, sugar, flour):

  1. Arrowrootfits better
  2. Sweet potatofits better
  3. Shallotfits better
  4. Potatothe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, sugar, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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