Why it works: Pepper and parsley match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 34,122 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓
Kidney, Terrapin Style
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the kidneys
Split the kidneys in half and trim off sinews and fat carefully.
Cut the kidneys into small pieces and place them in a stewpan covered with cold water.
Heat on moderate fire until almost boiling, then drain the water.
Cover with fresh cold water and repeat this process three times, ensuring it does not boil.
Make the sauce and finish
In a frying pan, melt the butter, then add the flour and mix.
Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly until it boils.
Add the kidneys, salt, and pepper, stirring until heated through.
Remove from heat and stir in the egg yolk, sherry, and parsley.
Serve immediately.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Pepper + parsleytop 2% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together34,122 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + parsleytop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together16,675 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Butter + sherrytop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,505 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Kidneys
- Provide the main meaty body of the dish, with a firm texture when cooked gently.
- Butter
- Carries the flour and adds richness and a smooth mouthfeel to the sauce.
- Flour
- Thickens the butter and milk into a smooth, lightly bound sauce.
- Milk
- Forms the liquid base of the sauce, adding creaminess as it thickens.
- Egg yolk
- Enriches the sauce and gives it body and a silky texture when stirred in off the heat.
The step that matters
Stir in the egg yolk off the heat. Egg yolk thickens by gentle heat and can scramble or curdle if the sauce is too hot. Removing the pan from the heat before adding it keeps the sauce smooth and creamy.
Swap the parsley
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, milk, pepper, egg, sherry):
- Nutmegfits about as well
- Cinnamonfits about as well
- Parsleythe original
- Thymefits about as well
Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, milk, pepper, egg, sherry. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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