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Dessert

Fruit Paste

A preserved fruit paste made by cooking apples with water, sulphite, sugar, and fruit pulp, then layered and dried.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Peach and apricot match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 342 recipes. Both carry delta-dodecalactone, which smells sweet, creamy. The science ↓

Fruit Paste

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the apples

  1. Peel, core, and slice the apples, then soak them in water with sulphite of soda to keep them white.

  2. Combine the apple slices with 2 quarts of water for every 30 pounds of apples in a kettle and boil, stirring continuously until the apples are cooked and melted.

  3. Pass the juice and pulp through a fine sieve, mixing it with an equal quantity of pulp from the desired fruit.

Make the paste

  1. Boil sugar and water until it forms a ball when tested in cold water, then mix the result with the fruit pulp.

  2. Boil briefly on high heat, add aniline for color, and pour the mixture onto a tin plate in layers ¼ to ⅓ inch thick.

Dry and crystallize

  1. Allow the layers to dry for one day in a warm room used for drying candied fruits.

  2. Cut the dried paste into disks, stars, or other shapes, and place them in crystallization boxes to crystallize like candied fruits.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Peach + apricottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together342 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  2. Raspberry + peachtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together190 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-decalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. Apple + quincetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together506 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl isobutyrate (fruity, ethereal).

  4. Apple + apricottop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together777 recipes

    Shared aroma: gamma-undecalactone (peach, sweet).

  5. Raspberry + strawberrytop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together815 recipes

    Shared aroma: furaneol (caramel, sweet).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Fine white apples
Provide pectin and body, forming the firm, sliceable base of the paste.
Equal weight of cooked sugar
Sweetens the paste and, as it cooks and sets, helps it dry firm and crystallize.
Equal quantity of pulp from desired fruit
Supplies the characteristic fruit flavor and aroma of the finished paste.

The step that matters

Cooking the sugar to the ball stage. Sugar cooked to the firm-ball stage gives the paste enough set to hold its shape when dried. Undercooked sugar leaves it soft and sticky, while overcooking can make it hard and brittle.

Swap the quince

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (apple, raspberry, strawberry, peach, apricot, sugar):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Pearfits better
  3. Plumfits better
  4. Quincethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against apple, raspberry, strawberry, peach, apricot, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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