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Dessert

Yellow Flummery

A sweet yellow dessert made with isinglass, water, wine, lemon, egg yolks, and sugar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: White wine and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 11% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 3,832 recipes. Both carry myrcene, which smells balsamic, herbaceous. The science ↓

Yellow Flummery

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the isinglass

  1. Beat and open the isinglass, then place it in a bowl.

  2. Pour boiling water over the isinglass and cover until almost cold.

Make the flummery

  1. Add white wine, lemon juice, lemon rind, and well-beaten egg yolks.

  2. Sweeten to taste and pour into a boiling pan.

  3. Keep it on the heat until it boils, then drain through a fine sieve.

Set and serve

  1. When almost cold, pour into cups and molds.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. White wine + lemontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  2. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Lemon + eggtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  4. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. White wine + sugartop 30% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,586 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Lemon and sugar barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Isinglass
Provides the gelatin-like structure that makes the mixture set into a firm jelly.
Egg yolks
Add richness and help thicken the mixture as it heats.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the flavor and balances the sweetness.
White wine
Adds liquid and a mild acidic flavor to the jelly.
Lemon rind
Adds aromatic lemon oils that scent the jelly.

The step that matters

Keep it on the heat until it boils. Egg yolks can curdle or turn grainy if overheated, so the mixture should be heated steadily and watched closely. Straining afterward removes any small set bits and gives a smooth jelly.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (white wine, egg, sugar):

  1. Vanillafits about as well
  2. Lemonthe original
  3. Applefits less well
  4. Plumfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against white wine, egg, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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