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Fish and Shell Fish

A stew made from turtle meat, seasoned with onion, herbs, and spiced sauce, finished with butter or flour, sherry, and egg yolk.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and onion are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 11% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 68,474 recipes. Both carry 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine, which smells earthy, pea. The science ↓

Fish and Shell Fish

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the turtle

  1. Plunge the turtle into a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes.

  2. Skin the under part and remove the horny parts of the feet.

  3. Soak the turtle in cold salt water for 10 minutes.

  4. Boil in hot salted water until tender, depending on size and age.

  5. Drain and wipe the turtle dry, then carefully loosen the shell without breaking the flesh.

  6. Cut open the shell carefully, avoiding the gall-bag, and remove it along with the entrails and sand-bag.

Make the stew

  1. Cut the remaining meat into small pieces and season with pepper, salt, onion, sweet herbs, and spiced sauce or catsup.

  2. Save the juice from the meat and combine everything in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid.

  3. Stew gently for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Thicken and finish

  1. Add butter or browned flour mixed with cold water, sherry, and the beaten egg yolk mixed with a little hot liquid to prevent curdling.

  2. Boil once and transfer to a covered dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + oniontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  2. Butter + sherrytop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,505 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  3. Sauce + buttertop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together15,338 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  4. Onion + buttertop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together42,912 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  5. Butter + eggtop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

Sauce and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 15,338 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Turtle
Provides the main meat, which becomes tender through long boiling and stewing.
Butter or browned flour
Thickens the stew and adds richness and a toasted flavour.
Egg yolk
Enriches and thickens the sauce, giving it a smoother body.
Brown sherry
Adds depth and a sweet, nutty aroma to the sauce.
Chopped onion
Adds savoury aromatic flavour as the stew cooks.

The step that matters

Adding the egg yolk. Egg yolk can curdle when it meets very hot liquid. Mixing it first with a little hot liquid gently raises its temperature, so it blends smoothly and thickens the sauce without becoming grainy.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (pepper, sauce, butter, sherry, egg):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Shallotfits better
  3. Asparagusfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against pepper, sauce, butter, sherry, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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