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New England Doughnuts, Etc

A yeasted doughnut made with eggs, sugar, sweet milk, flour, baking powder, lard, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg, then fried.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cinnamon and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,917 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

New England Doughnuts, Etc

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dough

  1. Beat the eggs and mix in the sugar and sweet milk in a large bowl.

  2. Combine the flour and baking powder in another bowl.

  3. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the wet mixture, stirring until combined.

  4. Melt the lard.

  5. Add the melted lard along with the salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg to the dough.

Shape and fry

  1. Knead the dough lightly and roll it out to about ½ inch thick.

  2. Cut into doughnut shapes and fry in hot oil until golden brown.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cinnamon + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together11,917 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,623 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together17,341 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Milk + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,655 recipes

    Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).

  5. Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together30,779 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Bind the dough and add richness and structure as they set in the frying oil.
All-purpose flour
Forms the gluten network that gives the doughnuts their body and chew.
Baking powder
Releases gas in the dough, helping the doughnuts rise and turn light.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and helps the doughnuts brown evenly in the hot oil.
Lard
Adds fat that tenderizes the dough and gives a rich flavor.

The step that matters

Fry in hot oil until golden brown. If the oil is too cool, doughnuts absorb excess oil and turn greasy and heavy; if too hot, the outside browns before the centre cooks through. Steady oil temperature gives a cooked, light interior.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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