Why it works: Wheat and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 6% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,418 recipes. Both carry (e,z)-2,6-nonadienal, which smells cucumber, melon. The science ↓
Whole Wheat Flour Gems
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a moderate oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Make the batter
In a large bowl, combine 1½ cups of whole wheat flour, ½ cup of sugar, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, and ½ teaspoon of coarse sea salt. Sift the dry ingredients together.
Add milk gradually to create a stiff batter.
Bake the gems
Pour the batter into gem pans and bake at 400°F (200°C) until golden.
Make the yeast version
For a yeast version, mix 1 cup of scalded milk with ½ cup of sugar, ¼ teaspoon of coarse sea salt, and ⅓ of a cake of compressed yeast.
Add whole wheat flour to make a thin batter and let it sit overnight.
In the morning, add more flour to thicken the batter to muffin consistency.
Transfer to a two-quart crock, let it rise until light, and bake at 350°F (175°C) for at least one hour.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Wheat + milktop 6% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,418 recipes
Shared aroma: (e,z)-2,6-nonadienal (cucumber, melon).
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Wheat + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together4,373 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + sugartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
Flour and milk barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 78,219 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Whole wheat flour
- Provides the structure of the batter, with bran adding a nutty, coarser texture.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the acid to release carbon dioxide, lifting the gems as they bake.
- Cream of tartar
- Supplies acid that reacts with baking soda, producing gas for rising and a tender crumb.
- Sugar
- Adds sweetness and helps the gems brown in the oven.
- Milk
- Hydrates the flour so starches and proteins form a cohesive batter.
The step that matters
Add the milk gradually. Whole wheat flour absorbs liquid at its own pace. Adding milk slowly lets you reach a stiff batter. Too much liquid makes the batter loose, so the gems spread and rise poorly.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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