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Ices and Ice Cream

A collection of old Southern recipes for ice creams, ices, sherbets, and frozen custard, all made by freezing.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Grape and apple match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,659 recipes. Both carry 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine, which smells green bell pepper, earthy. The science ↓

Ices and Ice Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Ice creams

  1. Bisque Glace: pound the macaroons fine.

  2. Bisque Glace: pour a little cream over the macaroons and let stand until softened.

  3. Bisque Glace: mash very fine, add the rest of the cream, and sweeten to taste.

  4. Buttermilk Ice Cream: to every teacupful of buttermilk add a tablespoon of sugar and flavor with vanilla or peach tree leaves.

  5. Caramel Ice Cream: prepare the caramel by melting brown sugar with a tablespoon of water over a brisk fire, stirring constantly until dissolved, taking care not to let it burn, then mix well and freeze hard.

  6. Cocoanut Ice Cream: stir the grated nut gradually into the cream, boil gently, or merely heat, to extract the flavor of the nut thoroughly, then pour the cream into a bowl and stir in the sugar.

  7. Cocoanut Ice Cream: when cool, stir in three pints of fresh cream and freeze.

  8. Frozen Custard: beat the yolks of five eggs and add the sugar.

  9. Frozen Custard: boil a quart of milk and stir in one tablespoon of cornstarch previously dissolved in a little cold milk.

  10. Frozen Custard: when cooked until it resembles cream, let cool.

  11. Frozen Custard: add one quart of cream and the eggs and sugar, season with lemon or vanilla, and freeze. Sliced peaches may be added just before freezing.

  12. Gelatine Ice Cream: soak half a package of Coxe's gelatine in a pint of morning's milk, then boil three pints of milk and, while hot, pour on the gelatine, stirring well until dissolved.

  13. Gelatine Ice Cream: when cold, add two quarts of cream, sweeten and season to taste, and freeze.

  14. Gelatine Ice Cream: reserve half the cream, whip it, and add it when the ice cream is just beginning to set.

  15. Hickory Nut Ice Cream: pick over the kernels carefully for pieces of shell, then pound the kernels in a mortar with a little sugar and water.

  16. Hickory Nut Ice Cream: melt two spoonsful of sugar over the fire without water until it browns, then pour in a little water to dissolve the browned sugar.

  17. Hickory Nut Ice Cream: add the cream with the sugar and nut paste, and freeze in the usual manner.

Neapolitan ice cream

  1. Neapolitan Ice Cream: make the yellow boiled custard by boiling one quart of thin cream with twelve ounces of sugar and a vanilla bean.

  2. Neapolitan Ice Cream: beat the yolks of twelve eggs light and pour the boiling cream over them.

  3. Neapolitan Ice Cream: set on the fire again and boil for a minute.

  4. Neapolitan Ice Cream: take off and strain as soon as slightly thickened.

  5. Neapolitan Ice Cream: pack the freezer tub with pounded ice mixed with one-fifth as much coarse salt, and turn the freezer.

  6. Neapolitan Ice Cream: when nearly frozen, if using a common freezer, beat up the cream with a paddle or spoon.

  7. Neapolitan Ice Cream: make the white ice cream by whipping one quart of cream partly to froth with twelve ounces of sugar and flavoring.

  8. Neapolitan Ice Cream: freeze quickly in a freezer that holds twice as much; if in a common freezer, beat light afterward, cover, and freeze again.

  9. Neapolitan Ice Cream: lay paper on the bottom lid of the mold, spread in the three layers evenly, put on paper and the lid, and seal the crevice with a little melted butter.

  10. Neapolitan Ice Cream: put the mold down in the freezing mixture, cover well with ice and salt, and let remain two or three hours.

  11. Neapolitan Ice Cream: to serve, wash the mold in cold water, wipe dry, remove lids and paper, and place the brick on a folded napkin on a dish.

Ices and sherbets

  1. Concord Grape Ice: mash the grapes and sugar together raw.

  2. Concord Grape Ice: add the lemon juice and water, strain into a freezer with all the pulp, and freeze at once.

  3. Lemon Sherbet: with two quarts of water, mix one and a half pounds of white sugar and the juice of six lemons.

  4. Lemon Sherbet: add one ounce of isinglass or the whites of eight eggs beaten light, then freeze.

  5. Pine Apple Sherbet: let the pineapple stand in two quarts of water for two hours.

  6. Pine Apple Sherbet: strain, and add the juice of the four lemons and two teacups of sugar.

  7. Pine Apple Sherbet: whip the whites of five eggs, add three tablespoons of sugar, place all in the freezer, and freeze at once.

  8. Watermelon Ice: scrape some of the pulp and use all the water of a ripe red melon.

  9. Watermelon Ice: sweeten to taste and freeze as other ice.

  10. Watermelon Ice: add well-frothed whites of three eggs to one gallon of ice just as it begins congealing.

  11. Watermelon Ice: add a few melon seeds and beat often with a large spoon.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

687Calories
20 gProtein
39 gFat
74 gCarbs

Counts 8 of 10 ingredients. The other 2 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 8 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Pine1 oz (28g)191
Milk1 cup (244ml) whole149
Apple1 medium (182g)95
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Concord Grape1/2 cup (76g)62
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Lemonjuice of 1 lemon (48ml)12
Waternot in our table0
Hickory Nutnot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Wilcox, Estelle Woods, comp. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Grape + appletop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,659 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine (green bell pepper, earthy).

  2. Lemon + pinetop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together480 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  4. Milk + appletop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,104 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4-heptenal (creamy, biscuit).

  5. Milk + grapetop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,682 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-hexanal (fruit).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cream
Provides richness and fat, giving the frozen ice cream a smooth, creamy texture.
Eggs
Yolks thicken the custard and add richness, while whites add airy structure to sherbets.
Sugar
Sweetens the mixture and keeps the frozen texture softer rather than rock hard.
Gelatine
Sets the mixture and gives the ice cream a firmer, more stable body.
Cornstarch (in the method)
Thickens the milk in the custard so it becomes smooth and creamy.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the flavor and balances the sweetness.

The step that matters

Thickening the Neapolitan boiled custard. Once the hot cream is poured over beaten egg yolks, the custard must be strained as soon as it slightly thickens. Overcooking can scramble the eggs, leaving grainy specks in the smooth base.

Swap the grape

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cream, sugar, milk, egg, lemon, pine, apple):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Orangefits about as well
  4. Grapethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cream, sugar, milk, egg, lemon, pine, apple. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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