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Dessert

Calves' Foot Jelly

A gelatin dessert made from boiled calf's foot, sugar, Madeira, eggs, and lemon juice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 18% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes. Both carry 2-nonenal, which smells fatty, green. The science ↓

Calves' Foot Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the stock

  1. Split four feet and put the whole into a stewpan.

  2. Pour one gallon of cold water over the feet.

  3. Boil until reduced to about one half, then strain through a sieve to remove the bones.

  4. When settled and cold, remove the grease from the surface.

Make the jelly

  1. Boil again with the following mixture: six eggs whipped in a little water, two pounds of sugar, and the juice of four lemons.

  2. Stir all well, removing the scum as it rises.

  3. When thoroughly skimmed, set by the fire and pour one pint of Madeira, or any other kind of wine or liquor into it.

  4. Filter through a flannel bag.

By Vehling, Joseph Dommers, 1879-1950. fmo. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  2. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  3. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calf feet (in the method)
Release gelatine as they simmer, which allows the strained liquid to set into a jelly.
Eggs
Whipped eggs collect impurities as they heat, helping clarify the liquid.
Sugar
Sweetens the jelly and adds body to the finished set.
Lemons
Juice adds acidity and bright flavour that balances the sweetness.
Madeira
Adds aroma and a rich, wine-based flavour to the finished jelly.

The step that matters

Skimming the scum and grease. Fat and scum left in the liquid cloud the jelly and can add off flavours. Removing them as they rise during simmering keeps the final jelly clear and clean-tasting.

Flavor stand-ins for the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg):

  1. Vanillabetter flavor fit
  2. Raisinabout as good a flavor fit
  3. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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