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French Chow Chow

A pickled relish of cucumbers, tomatoes, cauliflower, peppers, onions, and mustard paste.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and onion match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 6% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 9,259 recipes. Both carry 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine, which smells earthy, pea. The science ↓

French Chow Chow

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the vegetables

  1. Select 1 quart large green cucumbers, cut into small pieces.

  2. Select 1 quart cucumbers, 2 inches long or less.

  3. Select 1 quart green tomatoes, sliced or cut into bits.

  4. Select 1 large cauliflower, divided into tinned flowerets.

  5. Select 4 large green peppers, cut into coarse bits.

  6. When ready, put the vegetables in a weak brine, a cup of salt to a gallon of water. Soak the pickles twenty-four hours.

  7. Scald in the same brine and drain.

Make the paste

  1. Make a paste of 6 tablespoons ground mustard, 1 cup turmeric, 1 cup flour, 1 cup sugar, and 2 quarts vinegar. Mix the dry ingredients with a little of the vinegar, then add the remainder of the vinegar.

  2. Let this mixture scald, and stir until a smooth thick paste, then add the pickles and it is done.

  3. If one likes the flavor of onions, add 6 small onions to improve it.

Finish and store

  1. This chow chow is excellent the day after it is made, but better in a month of time. Put in jar.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

56Calories
2 gProtein
0 gFat
12 gCarbs

Counts 5 of 6 ingredients. The other 1 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 5 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Onion1 medium (110g)44
Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Mustard1 tsp (5g) yellow3
Vinegar1 tbsp (15ml) distilled3
Salt1 tsp (6g)0
Waternot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Hatfield (Mass.). Congregational Church. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + oniontop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together9,259 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  2. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Mustard + peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together15,430 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Pepper + oniontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Vinegar + oniontop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,226 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Ground mustard
Adds sharp, pungent flavor that defines the chow chow's character.
Vinegar
Provides acidity that preserves the vegetables and gives the sauce its tang.
Flour (in the method)
Thickens the mustard paste so it becomes smooth and clinging.
Sugar (in the method)
Balances the sharpness of the vinegar and mustard with sweetness.
Turmeric (in the method)
Gives the paste its yellow colour and a mild earthy flavour.
Salt brine
Draws water out of the vegetables and seasons them before scalding.

The step that matters

Letting the paste scald while stirring. Flour thickens only when heated and stirred, and stirring keeps it from lumping or scorching. Cooking it fully makes the paste smooth before the vegetables are added.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mustard, vinegar, pepper):

  1. Horseradishfits better
  2. Radishfits better
  3. Lettucefits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mustard, vinegar, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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