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Dessert

Creams and Custards

A collection of custard desserts, including floating islands, Irish moss, and orange snow.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

Creams and Custards

Ingredients

Directions

Make the custard

  1. Set a quart of milk to boil.

  2. Stir into it the beaten yolks of six eggs.

  3. Flavor with any extract liked and sweeten to taste.

  4. Whip whites of eggs to a stiff froth.

  5. When the custard is thick, put into a deep dish.

  6. Heap the frothed eggs upon it.

  7. Place pieces of currant jelly on top and serve cold.

Make the cream layers

  1. Into three-quarters of a pint of cream, put sugar to make it very sweet, and the juice and rind of a lemon grated.

  2. Beat it for ten minutes.

  3. Cut French rolls into thin slices, and lay them on a round dish on top of the cream.

  4. On this put a layer of apricot or currant jam, and some more slices of roll.

  5. Pile upon this, very high, a whip made of damson jam, and the whites of four eggs.

  6. Garnish with fruits or sweetmeats.

Make the moss blancmange

  1. Soak a scant handful of Irish moss in strong soda water until it swells.

  2. Squeeze the moss until it is free from water, and mix it in a tin bucket which contains six pints of sweet milk.

  3. Set the bucket in a large iron pot which holds several pints of hot water.

  4. Stir seldom, and let it remain until it will jell slightly by dropping on a cold plate.

  5. Strain through a sieve, sweeten and flavor to taste.

  6. Rinse a mold or a crock with tepid water; pour in the mixture, and set it away to cool.

  7. In a few hours it will be palatable.

  8. Eat with cream and sugar — some add jelly.

Make the gelatine custard

  1. Soak the gelatine two hours in a cup of the cold milk.

  2. Then add to the rest of the milk, which must be boiling hot, and stir until dissolved.

  3. Let it stand a few minutes, and strain through muslin over the beaten yolks and sugar.

  4. Put over the fire and stir five minutes, or until you can feel it thickening.

  5. Stir up well when nearly cold, flavor, and let it alone until it congeals around the edges of the bowl into which you have poured it; then stir again, and put into a wet mold.

  6. Set upon ice, or in cold water until firm.

  7. Turn it, when you are ready for it, into a glass bowl.

  8. Have a meringue made by whipping the whites stiff with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and the lemon juice.

  9. Peel sweet oranges, slice and lay them in a glass dish with alternate layers of grated coconut and powdered loaf sugar, leaving a layer of coconut on top.

  10. Pour over the whole a glass of orange and lemon juice mixed.

  11. Place on ice.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

339Calories
15 gProtein
19 gFat
29 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 5 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Milk1 cup (244ml) whole149
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Lemonjuice of 1 lemon (48ml)12

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Ellsworth, M. W. (Milon W.). Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Milk + lemontop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,053 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Milk + creamtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together29,399 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  4. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Milk + eggtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together88,785 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Yolks thicken the custard and whites whip into a stable, airy foam.
Milk
Forms the liquid base that sets into custard or blancmange.
Cream
Adds richness and body to the layered cream dish.
Gelatine
Sets the liquid custard into a firm, sliceable structure as it cools.
Irish moss
Its natural gel thickens the milk so it jells as it cools.
Sugar
Sweetens the custards and helps stabilise the whipped meringue.

The step that matters

Stir the custard over the fire until it just thickens. Egg yolks thicken as they heat, but overheating scrambles them into lumps. Stir steadily and remove from heat once the custard coats a spoon.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, sugar, cream, egg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Strawberryfits better
  3. Raspberryfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against milk, sugar, cream, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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