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Dessert

The Dewey Cook Book

A sponge cake made with lemon zest, beaten yolks, sugar, and flour, baked slowly in lady finger tins or dropped onto sheets.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and ginger match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,038 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

The Dewey Cook Book

Ingredients

Directions

Make the batter

  1. Beat the yolks until light.

  2. Add the sugar and grated lemon rind, which has been mixed with the sugar.

  3. Add the lemon juice and stiffly beaten whites.

  4. Fold in the flour lightly. Do not beat after adding the flour.

Bake and finish

  1. Bake in lady finger tins, or drop by spoonfuls onto buttered tin sheets.

  2. Bake in a very slow oven.

  3. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

814Calories
20 gProtein
24 gFat
129 gCarbs

Counts 9 of 11 ingredients. The other 2 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 9 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Flour1 cup (125g) all-purpose455
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Egg1 large egg (50g)78
Molasses1 tbsp (20g)58
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Lemonjuice of 1 lemon (48ml)12
Clove1 tsp ground (2g)7
Ginger1 tsp grated fresh (2g)2
Waternot in our table0
Cakenot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Young Men's Christian Association (Montpelier, Vt.). Women of the Auxiliary. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + gingertop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,038 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  4. Sugar + molassestop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together9,225 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  5. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Yolks and whipped whites give the batter its light, airy structure.
Flour
Provides the structure that holds the sponge once the batter is baked.
Sugar
Sweetens the batter and helps the yolks stay light when beaten with it.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the flavour of the sponge.

The step that matters

Fold in the flour lightly. Over-mixing after the flour is added knocks air out of the whipped whites and develops gluten, making the ladyfingers dense instead of light and tender.

Swap the clove

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, sugar, molasses, butter, cream, egg, ginger):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Nutmegfits better
  3. Cardamomfits about as well
  4. Clovethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, sugar, molasses, butter, cream, egg, ginger. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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