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Tomato Soy

A spiced tomato sauce made by layering tomatoes, salt, onions, and spices, then boiling, sieving, and bottling.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,395 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Tomato Soy

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the tomatoes

  1. Take a bushel of ripe tomatoes, slice them without skinning, layer them in a large tub with salt and onions, sprinkling salt between layers.

  2. Let the layered tomatoes sit for three days, then transfer them to a large iron pot and boil from early morning until night, stirring constantly to prevent sticking and mashing.

Strain and season

  1. Pass the mixture through a sieve, pressing to extract the liquid.

  2. Add one ounce of clorves, a quarter pound of allspice, a quarter pound of whole black pepper, and a small wine glass of cayenne.

  3. Let it boil slowly and constantly all day.

Cool and bottle

  1. In the evening, transfer to a suitable vessel to cool; the next day, bottle and cork it well, and store in a cool place during warm weather; if it ferments, boil a second time.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

61Calories
2 gProtein
1 gFat
14 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 5 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Onion1 medium (110g)44
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Cayenne1 tsp (1.8g)6
Allspice1 tsp ground (1.9g)5
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Mary Randolph (1762–1828). Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Pepper + oniontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Allspice + oniontop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,270 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Ripe tomatoes (in the method)
Form the main body of the sauce, providing the bulk of its liquid and flavor.
Salt
Draws liquid out of the layered tomatoes and helps preserve the sauce.
Onions
Add savory flavor to the sauce as it layers and cooks with the tomatoes.
Whole black pepper
Adds pungent, warm spice that flavors the sauce during the long boil.
Allspice
Adds aromatic, warm spice notes that deepen the sauce's flavor.

The step that matters

Stirring during the long boil. Tomatoes are thick and sugary, so they scorch and stick to the bottom of the pot during a long boil. Constant stirring keeps the mixture moving and prevents burning.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (allspice, pepper):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Carrotfits better
  3. Mustardfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against allspice, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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