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Round the Table

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 13,015 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓

Round the Table

Ingredients

Directions

  1. a quart or more, according to the quantity of soup you want. When thoroughly done, take out the fowls and let them and the stock get cold. Remove all the white flesh from the fowls, and pound it in a mortar with half its quantity of bread crumbs soaked in the stock (from which all fat has been previously removed) ; then add the rest of the stock, pass the puree through a fine hair sieve or tammy, and put it by till wanted. Just before serving pound- in a mortar a couple of dozen sweet almonds with half a pint of cream. Squeeze this in a cloth, and into the juice thus obtained beat up a couple of yolks of egg, previously strained. Let your puree come to the boil, but mind you do not let it boil ; take it off the fire, and stir into it the mixture of almond juice, cream, and eggs, and serve at once over sippets of bread, fried in butter and cut in the shape of small dice. Or, you may instead put into the soup some peas, or some carrots or cucumbers cut into the shape of peas, and previously cooked in stock. Or again, you may put into your soup some very diminutive quenelles of fowls.

  2. A less expensive way of making this soup is the following ; and, with proper care and judicious flavouring, the result will leave nothing to be desired :

  3. Remove the flesh from the remains of a couple of roast or boiled fowls, taking care to exclude all the skin ; add half the quantity of bread crumbs, soaked in stock free from grease, and pound thoroughly in a mortar ; season ■with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg ; pass through a hair sieve, add as much stock as you want soup, and you have your puree of fowls, which at the time of serving you make warm without letting it boil, and stir into it the yolks of a couple of eggs strained and beaten up with half a glass of cream or milk. Serve with sippets, or peas, Ac., as stated above.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

69Calories
1 gProtein
6 gFat
3 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 4 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Nutmeg1 tsp ground (2.2g)12
Black Pepper1 tsp ground (2.3g)6
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Chevalley de Rivaz, Victor. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  2. Cream + nutmegtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together7,920 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

  3. Cream + peppertop 23% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together21,449 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Cream and pepper barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 21,449 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Swap the nutmeg

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cream, pepper):

  1. Nutmegthe original
  2. Celeryfits about as well
  3. Tarragonfits less well
  4. Parsleyfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against cream, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

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