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On Some Ancient Pood

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and 13,144 recipes mention both. Both carry ethyl octanoate, which smells fruity, wine. The science ↓

On Some Ancient Pood

Ingredients

Directions

  1. 3. Cut up tlie eels as above, flour them, and fry them a light brown in butter. Melt a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan, mix with it a tablespoonful of flour, add half a pint of stock and the same quantity of claret -or burgundy, a bundle of sweet herbs, two or three shallots, whole pepper, cloves, and salt to taste, and the least bit of cayenne. Let this sauce boil a quarter of an hour, strain it over the eels in a saucepan, add a few button mushrooms, and let the whole stew gently for twenty minutes, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve.

  2. Another Gallic prepai’ation of fish, peculiar to the south of France, is the Bouillabaisse, than which there are few dishes more delicious or more difficult to get at. In its own country, especially in Marseilles, most people who can cook at all know how to make it ; but in this country, I am afraid, it is not to be had for love or money, although the excellence of it has been praised by Thackeray, who thus describes it in his ballad of “ Bouillabaisse

  3. This bouillabaisse a noble dish is,

  4. A sort of soup, or broth, or brew,

  5. Or hotchpotch, of all sorts of fishes That Greenwich never could outdo —

  6. Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffern,

  7. Soles, onions, garlic, roach and dace,

  8. All these you eat at Terres tavern In this one dish of bouillabaisse.

  9. I have eaten it in the greatest perfection at the Trois Fr'eres Provenc.aux, in the Palais Royal, where it had to be ordered the day before.

  10. The following is one way of making it, which will pro- duce a dish not devoid of merit, although inferior to the production of the Trois Fr'eres — now, to the unspeakable grief of all lovers of good food, unhappily extinct.

  11. Take any sort of both fresh and salt water fish, not too large, such as whiting, soles, small haddocks, plaice, mullets, small doreys, and carp, roach, dace,

By Chevalley de Rivaz, Victor. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Pepper + clovetop 3% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together13,144 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  2. Flour + shallottop 5% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together2,031 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Butter + flourtop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together122,858 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Shallot + clovetop 7% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together1,115 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Shallot + peppertop 8% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together5,849 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

Butter and flour share little aroma chemistry, yet 122,858 recipes mention both: they likely work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Flavor stand-ins for the clove

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, shallot, pepper):

  1. Parsleybetter flavor fit
  2. Tarragonbetter flavor fit
  3. Capersbetter flavor fit
  4. Clovethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, shallot, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

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