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Salmi of Duck or Game

Salmi is a stew of duck or game cooked with bacon, onion, carrot, stock, Madeira, and spices.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and flour are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Salmi of Duck or Game

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the base

  1. Cut the game into neat pieces; put them in the oven for five minutes to start the juices.

  2. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, one half pound of bacon or salt pork cut into dice, one tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot, twelve peppercorns, one saltspoonful each of salt, thyme, and sage, and any coarse pieces of the game.

  3. Cover with a greased paper and let cook to a glaze.

  4. Add a tablespoonful of flour, and let it brown.

Make the sauce

  1. Add two cupfuls of stock; simmer for thirty minutes.

  2. Strain.

  3. Add one quarter cupful of Madeira and the pieces of game; cover and let simmer another thirty minutes.

  4. If cooked game is used for the salmi, simmer for ten minutes only after the pieces are added to the sauce.

Finish and serve

  1. Add truffles a few minutes before it is removed from the fire.

  2. Garnish with croutons and truffles.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

644Calories
17 gProtein
16 gFat
105 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 5 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Flour1 cup (125g) all-purpose455
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Onion1 medium (110g)44
Bacon1 slice cooked (8g)43
Salt1 tsp (6g)0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Mary Ronald. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Butter + oniontop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together42,912 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  3. Onion + flourtop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together32,460 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Game (in the method)
Provides the main meat, which is browned and then simmered in the sauce until tender.
Bacon
Its fat and salty flavour build the savoury base for the sauce.
Flour
Browned in the fat, it thickens the stock into a body-rich sauce.
Stock
Forms the liquid that carries the flavour and becomes the sauce.
Madeira
Adds sweetness and depth as it reduces into the sauce.

The step that matters

Browning the flour. Cooking flour in the fat until it turns nutty develops flavour and colour and removes raw starch taste; stopping early leaves a pasty, floury sauce, while going too far gives a bitter edge.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Leekfits better
  3. Arrowrootfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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