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Jaumange, or Jaune Manger, Sometimes Called Dutch Flummery

A lemon and egg dessert thickened with isinglass and sherry.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sherry and lemon are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 17% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 3,273 recipes. Both carry 1-octen-3-ol, which smells mushroom, earthy. The science ↓

Jaumange, or Jaune Manger, Sometimes Called Dutch Flummery

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the syrup

  1. Peel the rind of a large lemon, removing only the very thin rind.

  2. Combine the lemon rind, half a pound of sugar broken small, and a pint of water in a saucepan.

  3. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire until it simmers for three or four minutes.

  4. Leave the saucepan aside so the syrup may taste well of the lemon.

Add the isinglass and flavourings

  1. After ten or fifteen minutes, add two ounces of isinglass to the mixture.

  2. Stir the mixture often until the isinglass is dissolved.

  3. Add the strained juice of four sound moderate-sized lemons and a pint of sherry.

  4. Mix the whole briskly with the beaten yolks of eight fresh eggs.

Strain, thicken and set

  1. Pass the mixture through a delicately clean hair-sieve.

  2. Thicken the strained liquid in a jar or jug placed in a pan of boiling water.

  3. Turn the thickened mixture into a bowl.

  4. Allow it to cool and settle for a minute or two.

  5. Pour the cooled mixture into moulds that have been laid in water.

  6. Optionally, add a small glass of brandy to the mixture, reducing the water accordingly.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

164Calories
7 gProtein
5 gFat
18 gCarbs

Counts 4 of 5 ingredients. The other 1 aren't in our nutrition table and add nothing above, so the real totals are higher.

What these numbers assume: 4 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Eggs1 large egg (50g)78
Sugar1 tbsp (12.5g) granulated49
Wine2 tbsp cooking wine (30ml)25
Lemonjuice of 1 lemon (48ml)12
Waternot in our table0

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Eliza Acton. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sherry + lemontop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,273 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  2. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Lemon + eggtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  4. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Sugar + sherrytop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together4,141 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Isinglass
Sets the liquid into a firm, wobbly jelly as it cools.
Eggs
Yolks thicken the mixture and add richness and body when gently heated.
Sugar
Sweetens the syrup and balances the sharpness of the lemon juice.
Lemons
Juice and rind supply sharp acidity and a bright lemon aroma.
Sherry
Adds wine flavour and aroma to the set mixture.

The step that matters

Mixing the beaten yolks in briskly. Egg yolks can scramble or curdle if they meet hot liquid too fast; stirring briskly while adding them spreads the heat evenly so the mixture thickens smoothly.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, sherry, egg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Pineapplefits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, sherry, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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