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A Swiss Mayonnaise

A thick mayonnaise sauce made from butter, eggs, cayenne, and oil, served with boiled fowls arranged in a pyramid.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 8% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 41,516 recipes. Both carry delta-dodecalactone, which smells sweet, creamy. The science ↓

A Swiss Mayonnaise

Ingredients

Directions

Make the sauce

  1. Beat half a pound of butter into a cream.

  2. Add the butter gradually to the hard-boiled yolks of six fresh eggs cut into quarters, separated from the whites, and pound to a paste.

  3. When blended into a smooth sauce, add a few drops at a time of salad oil, working the mixture as in mayonnaise.

  4. Add a small quantity of salt and sufficient vinegar in small portions to give acidity.

  5. Optionally substitute fresh lemon juice for vinegar and add a little cayenne.

Build the pyramid

  1. Carve two delicate boiled fowls and trim the joints into handsome form.

  2. Lay the inferior parts on a large plate and spread a thick portion of sauce over them.

  3. Arrange the coated parts in a flat layer in the dish.

  4. Sauce more joints and arrange them symmetrically over the others.

  5. Build a pyramid with the whole.

  6. Decorate the pyramid with egg whites and hearts of small lettuces cut in halves.

  7. Place the lettuce and egg whites around the base alternately with whole bantams or plovers eggs boiled hard, cutting a small slice from the large end of each to allow upright placement.

  8. Stick a slight branch of parsley or other foliage in the tops.

  9. Substitute roast chickens skinless for boiled ones if desired, separating into single joints except wings.

  10. The inferior parts need not be used.

Make the fish salad variation

  1. Use the same sauce flavored with cayenne, other condiments, anchovy essence, and colored with lobster-coral to make a fish salad with alternate slices of lobster and cold turbot or large soles.

  2. Arrange the fish slices into a high border or chain around a dish, filling the center with young fresh salad and sauce it immediately before serving.

Notes

  1. Keep the French mayonnaise very thick.

  2. Mix a little rich cold white sauce with it sometimes.

Nutrition, whole recipe (rough)

237Calories
7 gProtein
22 gFat
2 gCarbs
What these numbers assume: 4 portions
IngredientPortion assumedkcal
Butter1 tbsp (14g)102
Eggs1 large egg (50g)78
Cream1 tbsp (15ml) heavy51
Cayenne1 tsp (1.8g)6

One typical portion per ingredient; the recipe's quantities are not counted. A rough guide only, not for medical or dietary planning.

By Eliza Acton. Recipe from a historical cookbook (Project Gutenberg).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures. See the original page.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  2. Butter + eggtop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  3. Cream + eggtop 24% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together42,166 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Cream and egg barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 42,166 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Creamed to form the rich base that the sauce is built on.
Eggs
Hard-boiled yolks, pounded with butter, form the emulsifying base of the sauce.
Salad oil
Added drop by drop to lengthen the emulsion and give the sauce body.
Vinegar (in the method)
Adds acidity that sharpens the flavour and balances the richness of the sauce.
Boiled fowls
Main meat, coated with sauce and arranged into the pyramid.

The step that matters

Adding the oil. Oil must go in a few drops at a time into the smooth butter and yolk base. Adding it too fast can break the emulsion, leaving the sauce greasy and thin rather than thick and smooth.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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