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Dessert

Lemon Taffy

A hard candy made from sugar, water, tartar, and lemon flavoring.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

Lemon Taffy

Ingredients

Directions

Make the taffy

  1. In a saucepan, combine sugar, water, and cream of tartar.

  2. Boil the mixture until it forms hairs or becomes brittle in cold water.

  3. Pour the hot mixture into a shallow buttered pan.

Flavor and work

  1. Once cool enough to handle, add tartaric acid and lemon extract.

  2. Work the mixture until evenly distributed, but do not overwork to maintain transparency.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Cream + lemontop 30% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together15,640 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Granulated sugar
Forms the bulk of the candy and sets into a glassy, chewy texture as it cools.
Cream of tartar
Acid that helps prevent sugar from recrystallizing, keeping the taffy smooth rather than grainy.
Tartaric acid
Adds a sharp, tart bite that balances the sweetness of the sugar.
Water
Dissolves the sugar so it can be cooked into a syrup without burning.

The step that matters

Work the mixture until evenly distributed, but do not overwork to maintain transparency.. Continued working of cooling sugar introduces air and promotes crystal formation, which turns taffy opaque and grainy. Stop once the flavorings are evenly mixed.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, cream):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Strawberryfits better
  3. Raspberryfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, cream. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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