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Salad and Slaw Dressing

A creamy dressing made with flour, sugar, mustard, vinegar, butter, egg, salt, water, and evaporated milk or cream.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mustard and vinegar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,067 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Salad and Slaw Dressing

Ingredients

Directions

Make the dressing

  1. Combine flour, sugar, mustard, vinegar, butter, egg, salt, and water in a double boiler.

  2. Boil the mixture until thickened.

  3. Remove from heat and stir in evaporated milk or cream.

Serve

  1. Use the dressing for slaw or fruit salad.

  2. Omit the sugar when using it for potato salad or meat.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mustard + vinegartop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together14,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Sugar + evaporated milktop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together804 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  3. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Flour + mustardtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,066 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Flour + sugartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together92,116 recipes

    Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg
Thickens the dressing as it cooks and adds richness.
Flour
Thickens the dressing when heated with the liquids.
Vinegar
Adds acidity that gives the dressing its tang.
Sugar
Adds sweetness to balance the vinegar's sharpness.
Butter
Adds fat for a smooth, rich texture.
Evaporated milk or cream
Adds creaminess and mellows the dressing's flavor.

The step that matters

Boil the mixture until thickened. The egg and flour must be heated gently in the double boiler and thickened without curdling. Overheating can scramble the egg, leaving the dressing lumpy, so keep the heat moderate and stir steadily.

Swap the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, sugar, vinegar, butter, egg, evaporated milk):

  1. Capsicumfits about as well
  2. Sweet potatofits about as well
  3. Mustardthe original
  4. Shallotfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, sugar, vinegar, butter, egg, evaporated milk. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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