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Dessert

Italian Cream

A custard made from cream, wine, lemon juice, sugar, isinglass, and water, set in molds.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cream and sugar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

Italian Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the cream

  1. Divide the cream into two parts.

  2. To one pint of cream, add the wine, lemon juice, and sugar.

Set and mould

  1. Dissolve the isinglass in the cup of water.

  2. Add the dissolved isinglass to the other pint of cream.

  3. Stir all ingredients together.

  4. Pour the mixture into molds.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Wine + lemontop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together6,157 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  3. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Cream + winetop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together3,887 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

  5. Cream + lemontop 30% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together15,640 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Lemon and sugar barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cream
Provides fat and richness, giving the custard its smooth body and mouthfeel.
Isinglass
Acts as a setting agent, so the mixture firms up into a sliceable custard as it cools.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and balances the acidity of the lemon juice and wine.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity and bright flavour that cuts through the richness of the cream.
Wine
Adds flavour and aroma to the cream.

The step that matters

Dissolve the isinglass fully in the water. Isinglass is the setting agent, so it must be completely dissolved before it goes into the cream. Undissolved granules can leave specks or uneven patches, and the custard sets unevenly.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cream, wine, sugar):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Strawberryfits better
  3. Raspberryfits better
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cream, wine, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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